The Royal Oak is a pub with personality, dating back over 300 years to the 17th century.  The pub is at the heart of the conservation, ironstone village of Eydon in Northamptonshire. Legend has it that cock fights used to regularly take place inside the pub and that a plot to murder the then Lord of the Manor was overheard! With stone interior, secret alcoves and four separate dining areas, it makes a cosy place to have a delicious meal or, a pint or two of local ale. The Oak keeps a rotating local guest beer and has a cracking wine list.

The Royal Oak at Eydon is setting its sights on raising the culinary bar as new Head Chef, Christian Ringsby-Burges joins. Christian is a local Northamptonshire lad living close by to Eydon in Byfield. He trained at Northampton College and has a wealth of culinary experience gained as the 2nd Chef at the renowned Fawsley Hall. Christian also previously worked at Michelin starred Whatley Manor & The New French Partridge.

The emphasis is on showcasing quality, seasonal, local produce. Christian intends to work with as many local producers as possible who can fulfil his quality requirements. Such as Moreton Mushrooms (Moreton Pinkney), Wykham Park asparagus (Banbury), Windmill Orchards fruits & juices (Sulgrave) to name but a few. The Oak also run a locally grown fruit and vegetable exchange for beer tokens. Christian commented, “Today, I’ve received a bunch of locally grown flat leaf parsley & rhubarb from Sue – all fantastic quality and plucked straight from the garden.” Sue’s rhubarb went straight on the menu as: “Chicken Liver Parfait with Sue’s Poached Rhubarb, Brioche & Pistachio”

I was lucky enough to have been invited to Christian’s “new menu” launch night, where we enjoyed:

Aperitif: Fleur Fields Champs D’amour Sparkling Wine 2010

*****

Wykham Park asparagus with poached free range egg, hollandaise & crispy ham

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Seafood Risotto of shellfish, tiger prawns & crayfish with cucumber & fennel salad

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Braised pork belly & roast tenderloin with sage & onion bon bon, savoy cabbage, & Garden of Eydon cider jus

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White chocolate pannacotta with local berries (exchanged for beer tokens!)

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Coffee or Tea

The meal was excellent, combining great local produce with adept cooking skills to provide great complimentary flavours and textures. The highlight for me was the braised pork belly & roast tenderloin which was a swineherd’s delight, all washed down with an excellent locally made “Garden of Eydon” cider. Keeping to the local drinks theme, we enjoyed Northamptonshire Fleur Fields Champs D’amour sparkling wine as an aperitif and sampled Warwickshire Welcombe Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 with the braised pork belly.

The Royal Oak @ Eydon is definitely worth a visit and Christian is sure to make his mark on the culinary landscape. Let us know what you thought on our Facebook page.

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A Day with the Rutting Reds

by Lorne on April 11, 2011

Having had the pleasure of eating Rutting Reds‘ venison loin on two occasions, prepared by the talented Adam Gray, I thought it was time I paid them a visit. Giles and Polly Wilson currently have a herd of 85 Red Deer which they plan, in time, to increase to around 150. They adopt an approach of minimal intervention, with no handling and allowing nature to take its course which makes the herd virtually wild. The deer enjoy feeding on pasture grass most of the year and are given haylage (cut grass, partially dried which is wrapped in plastic & left to ferment) and rolled nuts in the Winter.

Rutting Reds currently supply all the venison they can produce to a handful of quality restaurants like, the Meredith Group’s small chain of London gastro pubs, along with supplying venison for locals, friends & family. This is a serious endeavour, as Giles and Polly do absolutely everything from looking after the deer to slaughtering and butchering the animals. Giles does the main butchery, skills which he picked up from a butcher friend and through a brief course with The British Deer Society. Polly then takes over to finally mince the remaining venison and  turn it into delicious sausages & burgers. All of this is done on site so as the animals endure the absolute minimum stress. Giles is currently experimenting with curing the deer skins too!

Controlling consistent quality and flavour is the key benefit gained through farming deer in contrast to wild herds. This is achieved by knowing the age of your stock and  being able to kill the deer in a more controlled way. Typically, any deer which is due to be dispatched will be shot by a single bullet using a silenced rifle. The deer are normally shot when they are busy grazing and away from the main herd to avoid distressing the other deer. Giles chooses stags which are between 15 to 24 months in age ensuring that the meat will be tender and of a milder flavour. The carcasses are then hung from between 5-10 days again, to enhance flavour but to keep it milder in flavour. Hinds are productive for around 10-12 years and when their time is up their meat is used to make sausages.

Giles and Polly also make salami, chorizo and parma ham with the pigs they keep too!

Venison is a very healthy meat which is low in cholesterol, high in iron and doesn’t shrink to the extent of other meats when cooked.  Isn’t it time we started eating more venison as a Nation?

The herd is onto it’s third dominant stag who currently rules the roost and will be the father of most of this summer’s new off spring. There are another three stags climbing the ranks who will have to fight it out come the this year’s rutting season from September-October. During the rut there’s nothing the stag likes better than to role in his own wee, thus rendering him with an irresistible cologne which the hinds can’t resist!

When I visited during March, the deer weren’t looking quite their best as their coats were molting in time for Spring and the stags were beginning to shed their antlers (see picture above where there are just buds left where the antlers were previously attached). The deer had also all been wallowing in the fresh, muddy water pools which they’ve dug up. None the less, their presence was still majestic!

Both Giles & Polly are an inspiration in confronting each task in their stride, ensuring their herd of Red Deer are happy and stress free. I can definitely recommend the mild flavour and tenderness of their venison which does melt in the mouth!

Now the sun’s popped out what culinary adventures are you planning? Come & tell us on our Facebook Page.

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A Touch of Peat Reek!

April 1, 2011

I was asked by the nice people at Master of Malt whether I’d like to try some whisky samples. Not one to shirk my responsibilities, I dutifully agreed. They have an innovative sampling system called “Drinks by the Dram” where you can buy 30ml sample bottles of most of their array of single malts & [...]

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Northamptonshire Food & Drink Awards 2011/12

March 24, 2011

The race is on to search the four corners of Northamptonshire to find all that is glorious and delicious in terms of Food & Drink. The Northamptonshire Food & Drinks Awards 2011/12 were recently launched for their third year at the splendid Holdenby House. This year there are 10 categories: Best Local Product Best Local Drink Restaurant of [...]

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Vinoteca – Seymour Place

March 10, 2011

We managed an all too infrequent trip into London one Friday night recently to meet friends in the pursuit of good food, interesting wine and general merriment! With that in mind, we thought we’d visit our old mates’ (Brett Woonton & Charlie Young) newest Vinoteca offshoot in Seymour Place. The Vinoteca wine-bar concept is a simple but compelling one, offering good [...]

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Prepped – Plum & Cardamom Crumble

February 23, 2011

“Prepped” is local cookery writer, Vanessa Kimbell’s blog about the trials and tribulations of writing her first cookery book. A stickler for detail, Vanessa has asked for help to trial all the recipes which will feature in her cookery book “Prepped” which launches in May this year. Always keen on a culinary challenge, Vanessa asked me [...]

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A Year of Grazing and Guzzling – Part 2

February 16, 2011

Our first birthday is still in full flourish and we continue our dive into the gastronomy archives of some of my favourite Recipes, Travel Destinations & Spectacles: As a family we descended upon Rye last February to take part in the annual Rye Bay Scallop Festival. The Rye scallops are fat, juicy and much sought after. The Rye fleet catch King [...]

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A Year of Grazing & Guzzling – Part 1

February 1, 2011

Well, it’s officially our 1st birthday, we’re out of nappies and now fully on solids! It’s been a truly amazing year in the World of Food and I have met many interesting and engaging characters; all of which share one thing: the passion for good honest food which respects mother nature and comes from the soul. Some [...]

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Tuscan Bread & Bean Soup

January 26, 2011

Looking for something warming and nutritious to bolster the cold January days, Julia Della Croce reminded of a recipe for the classic “Tuscan Bread & Bean Soup.” It’s really about as simple a soup as one could imagine and, in these financially austere days, it’s as cheap as the proverbial “chip!” (Serves 4) 1 cup of dried cannellini beans [...]

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Mr Dutchy – “The Tase of the Caribbean”

January 14, 2011

Northamptonshire isn’t exactly at the forefront of food and drink innovation but, little-by-little, things are changing for the better! A good example of this is ”Mr Dutchy” who have recently been voted the best takeaway in “The BBC Food & Farming Awards 2010,” in recognition of their wonderful Caribbean cuisine. The owner, Paul Marcus Boyce, grew [...]

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